Full interview with Kotaro from Fullcount
Question:
FULLCOUNT is considered one of the legendary “Osaka Five” brands that shaped Japanese denim culture in the 1990s. Looking back, why did Osaka become such an important hub for denim innovation and craftsmanship at that time?Answer:
In the late 1980s—what could be described as the beginning of Japan’s first vintage boom—Osaka was at its center. Around that time, those of us who would later be called the “Osaka Five” were driven by a shared desire to recreate denim from before the 1950s, which was then considered true vintage.We had close relationships with one another, constantly exchanging information and pushing each other to improve. Together, we thoroughly researched the manufacturing techniques of the 1950s, aiming to revive them in the modern era. While we were competitors, we were also fully committed on a personal level—each of us staking our lives on this pursuit.
Another key factor was Osaka’s proximity to Okayama, Japan’s main denim production region, which accelerated our efforts. Each founder approached denim from a different background: Mr. Tagaki of Studio D’Artisan from imported French clothing, Mr. Hayashi of Denime from jeans manufacturing, Mr. Yamane of Evisu, Mr. Shiotani of Warehouse, and myself from an American vintage clothing background.
Question:
The Osaka Five brands changed the global perception of denim through their dedication to vintage Levi’s details, shuttle looms, natural indigo, and traditional production methods. Why were Japanese consumers and makers so committed to authenticity?
Answer:
Until the late 1960s, Japan actually functioned as one of the production
bases for American denim fabrics. We believed that reviving those old machines and continuing inefficient, traditional production methods was the only way to make truly great jeans.
The products created through this approach convinced consumers and gained strong support. As demand grew, we shifted our focus toward maintaining and continuing this way of production.
Question:
FULLCOUNT became known for using Zimbabwe cotton at a time when many brands focused on heavy-weight, rugged denim. Why was softness and comfort such a core philosophy from the beginning?Answer:
I was personally captivated by the beauty of denim aging and fading. However, that appeal isn’t universal—it depends on individual values. For those who aren’t interested in that aspect, it holds little meaning.I believe the universal value of clothing lies in comfort. I wanted to create jeans that feel so good you instinctively reach for them every day. As a result, with continued wear, the jeans develop a patina that reflects the wearer’s personal history.
Question:
Japanese denim collectors often speak about the “soul” or “character” of jeans. How would you describe the emotional connection created by Japanese craftsmanship compared to mainstream fashion production?Answer:
I believe the passion and history behind our craftsmanship build trust with the wearer. At FULLCOUNT in particular, our commitment lies in maintaining consistency—we have worked with the same fabric mills, the same sewing factories, and the same production background since our founding. That continuity is how we meet expectations.
Question:
FULLCOUNT’s collaboration with Tenue de Nîmes features the 0105 model. The 0105 has become one of your signature fits over the years. Why has it remained so timeless and beloved across generations?Answer:
The 0105 was the second model we ever created, and it holds special meaning for me as the first model in which we used Zimbabwe cotton.Its silhouette allows the true appeal of jeans to shine, whether worn true-to-size or oversized. I believe it best represents both the aesthetic and the comfort of what jeans should be.
To the product
Question:
Despite changing trends and rising production costs, FULLCOUNT continues to manufacture in Japan. Why is preserving Japanese craftsmanship non-negotiable for the brand?Answer:
The unique appeal of our products—especially the fabric—can only be expressed through production in Japan. It’s something that can only be achieved by our specific team.Even if shuttle looms exist overseas, without skilled craftsmen who truly understand how to use them, it’s impossible to produce great denim.
Question:
Denim has evolved from workwear to luxury fashion and collector’s items. How has FULLCOUNT maintained its authenticity throughout these changes?Answer:
Our stance has not changed at all since our founding. In recent years, we’ve been fortunate to gain attention overseas, and I believe this reflects a global moment where people are beginning to appreciate our history.
Question:
Tenue de Nîmes has long promoted Japanese denim culture in Amsterdam. What made this collaboration with such a specialized independent retailer particularly meaningful?Answer:
We’ve been working with Tenue de Nîmes for several years, and we feel their philosophy closely aligns with ours—especially in how they present denim as fashion.That’s what we find appealing. What we enjoy most is seeing people who love fashion incorporate our jeans into their style and wear them in their own way.
Question:
As Japanese denim continues to gain global recognition, how does FULLCOUNT balance preserving tradition with evolving for a new generation? And where do you see denim culture heading?Answer:
We will continue to move forward without cutting corners, maintaining our established processes while striving to meet expectations.We believe that refusing to compromise is what will make denim timeless.
